(Dog) Parks and Recreation

Cinderella (above) and I have pretty much been addicted to the off leash dog parks in my area. In fact, I didn't even realize how many there were in close proximity to where I live. Off leash dog parks seem to be getting more and more common throughout the US. I think it has a lot to do with the fact that the majority of dogs kept as pets in this country are city dogs, or suburban dogs at best. It is rarer and rarer for a dog to go to a home where he has ample space to run without a leash. For this reason, it seems that a little bit of guilt tends to motivate owners to take their dogs to off leash parks; guilt that their dogs are often cooped up in the house or crated most of the day while they work. In this regard, off leash parks are a dream come true for dogs and owners alike.




Attractions at dog parks vary. If your dog has a particular interest, chances are you can find a park that accommodates. Some have agility equipment set up, some offer fenced in wooded trails, some have access to water either by a beach, pool or lake.
Of course, where there are few boundaries, there is also potential for chaos. But as long as you follow a few simple rules, dog parks are fun and relatively stress free, even if you don't bring your dog! (Ok...maybe that's just me).



For starters, females in season or dogs that are not up to date on their vaccines are definite no-no's at dog parks. The same goes for dogs that have ever shown aggressive tendencies toward people or other dogs. Walking into a dog park with an unpredictable dog is asking for a lawsuit.

Most vets will administer the bordetella (or kennel cough) vaccine if you let them know that you plan on taking your dog to public places that other dogs frequent. But it may also depend on your area. The topic of vaccines has become somewhat controversial in the animal world lately, so be sure and run it by your vet to get their opinion.

Some parks have different rules than others. It's always wise to check the website of the specific park before you go, so you don't make a wasted effort. A good website for finding off-leash parks in your area:

Dog Fun Directory



Know your dog
An off leash park is not the place to experiment with your dog's temperament and behavior around other dogs. If your dog doesn't get out of your yard or neighborhood often, don't throw him into a situation where you're not sure how he'll react. Start by walking your dog in more public places, or taking him/her to some kind of supervised play group held by a training facility. A play group will have a trainer on staff who will be there to monitor behavior and break up any fights should they start, whereas at a dog park, you're on your own. Know what type of behavior is normal for your dog and get a sense for whether or not he would be comfortable and safe for others at an off leash park. It's also helpful if you feel confident that you can control your dog. A reliable recall and a trusting relationship goes a long way when it comes to letting your dog off his leash.



Know Dog Behavior
Dogs have their own language. Learn the difference between a dog that is saying "please leave me alone" and one that is aggressive/dominant. It is not unusual or unacceptable for a dog to snap at another dog to tell them to leave him alone. However, a dog that is actively seeking out confrontation is another story. Generally you can tell the difference by reading body language. A dog that just wants to be left alone will usually have his tail down or in a neutral position and may snap and bark, but quickly retreat. If your dog does this, don't scold him. Most likely the offending dog is the one who needs to learn proper manners. However, a dog that reacts this way every time he meets a new dog, regardless of the other dog's politeness, may be overly nervous and insecure and not a good candidate for off leash parks.



Watch For Bullies
A problem you will run into often at off leash parks are dogs that are being bullies with no one to hold them accountable. But it's equally important to recognize aggressive behavior in your own dog as it is in others. Many owners mistake dominance for playfulness. Be observant. If a dog your dog is playing with begins to appear fearful with tail tucked between legs, snapping, or crying, it's time to re-direct your dog's attention. Don't be the one with the bully dog! Likewise, watch for other dogs that may try to heckle your own and stop it before it escalates. The most effective way to stop a behavior from getting out of control is to simply re-direct the attention of one or both of the dogs. Don't contribute to an intense situation by screaming or yelling.



Monitor Group Play
Surprisingly enough, fights rarely break out at dog parks. But there certainly are horror stories of smaller, more timid dogs getting injured or even killed by a group of more aggressive dogs. If your dog is nervous, he may be a target for getting ganged up on. So it's important that owners keep their dogs from grouping together and trying to intimidate others.



Have fun!
It might sound silly but walking confidently, not over-babying your dog, and generally being happy will greatly impact the way your dog behaves at an off leash park. If you're nervous, your dog will be too. If your dog is very afraid the first time at a park, don't give up just yet. Most dogs are anxious at first and calm down with time. Others may need to come back to the same park several times before they begin to feel comfortable, but even very shy dogs can surprise you and break out of their shell if you're willing to practice some patience. Even better, most dog parks have a "shy dog" or "small dog" area for those that are new or less outgoing than the majority.



Remember, you're the leader. Focus on being the cool and collected role model your dog needs!



Do Bring
- Treats, in case you need to re-direct a behavior or entice your dog back to you if he doesn't come when called (but I have yet to see a dog that doesn't keep check with its owner!)
- Extra bags! Most dogs eliminate themselves more than once at an off leash park!
- Water, especially if you plan to stay for a while



Don't Bring
- Toys. Toys can actually be a source of stress for a dog in a group environment. Dogs that have their own toys at dog parks will be more likely to become possessive and unsociable. There are exceptions to this rule however. If your dog is a focused retriever for instance, a ball or frisbee can be a great thing to bring to an off leash park. Just keep in mind that other dogs may take your dog's ball, so you may want to bring extras!



Lastly, as demonstrated by the first picture in this post, expect your dog to be a bit messy after a trip to the park. It's not a bad idea to bring towels for the car ride and plan on bathing your dog when you get home!



The benefits to the dog parks far outweigh the potential hazards for me. The socialization aspect alone has been great for my dogs. It's also excellent for burning off excess energy. Cinderella is always more content being in the house after spending a couple hours at an off leash park. She gets twice as much exercise there than she does on a walk with me. But I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a bit selfish in taking her to the dog park. Truthfully, I'm not sure who enjoys going to them more; me or her.



(All photos taken by Tory Cobrea)

Clicking With Your Dog 3

Sitting is not the most natural position for a dog to be in. If you observe dogs or wolves in the wild, they are most often standing or lying down. Because of this, teaching your dog to lie down is a useful command, especially when you need your dog to hold the position for an extended amount of time. Your dog will be much more comfortable than if he or she was required to hold a sit stay for the same amount of time.

As I stated in my previous clicker post, there are various ways you can go about teaching your dog a new command. For a 'down', luring typically works the best. Most dogs naturally follow a bit of food with their eyes and nose. Therefore, by using a treat to lure your dog's face towards the ground, that alone is most often enough to achieve the proper result. As with any clicker training session, immediately click and reward a successful down. I never advocate forcing a dog into a position. However, if luring does not seem to be enough, you can also mold your dog by gently massaging his or her shoulder blades to help encourage them to lie down. The leash can also be a gentle guide to pull your dog in the right direction, if extra help is needed. It is important to keep in mind that a 'down' is the most submissive position for a dog to learn, so it is best not to start with this command until some other training has happened and the bond between dog and handler is established.

One problem that people frequently run into with luring is that they have trouble moving away from it. Meaning, their dog will not perform a command unless the lure is there. The key to getting rid of a lure is to do it gradually! So, if you have been holding the treat all the way near to the ground and your dog is consistently lying down, try holding it an inch or so above the ground instead. If your dog can still lie down consistently, hold the lure two or three inches above the ground. As your dog becomes consistent at each modified way of luring him/her, you can add more and more space between the lure and the ground. The ultimate goal is that, eventually, your dog will lay down on command, even when you are standing up straight.

Do not attempt to increase the duration of your dog's down stay for more than a moment until he or she is really grasping the concept of the word. If you try to step away from your dog too soon, they will surely get right up, and it is easy to become frustrated. Focus first on the simple concept of what a 'down' looks and feels like for your dog - and allow their muscle memory to kick in as well. You always, always want to set dogs up for success!


Luring Gabe at a beginner's level



Luring Gabe at an intermediate level.

Excuse my very unprofessional pictures - I had to use a self timer and also hope that Gabe's timing would be accurate!

Abby - May's Dog of the Month

My friends Laura and Jeff are such a great couple. They are two of the nicest people you'll ever meet, and their hearts reflect that in how they care about each other as well as the people around them. Their loving nature was also made apparent when they picked out their first dog together - a rescued mutt named Abby.

Abby was not a clean slate when they adopted her - other people had already shaped her in certain ways or neglected to nurture her in others, leaving her in great need of stability and patience. And yet, Jeff and Laura opted to give her a chance at living out a happy and full life. With that time and patience, Abby has made great strides! That in itself is reason to celebrate Abby and other dogs like her. So, for the next month we will get to look at Abby's smiling face and her radical ears! Thanks for sharing, Jeff and Laura!


Age: is TWO
Breed: Mutt (we think Basenji, Lab and something else.)
Where did you get Abby? We picked her up at Wayside Waifs. She was a two time pound puppy where she had been brought back by a former owner. Poor thing.
What made you choose her? We picked her because of her stupid big ears and her huge tongue. We also liked her high energy and her playfulness. I have always loved mutts and talked Jeff into getting away from the pure breed dogs. We went to the pound and fell in love at first sight.
How did you name her? Her name at first was Jolie but we thought that was dumb and Jeff named her Abby. It seemed to be just right. When she's bad we call out Abigail and she puts her head down and her tail down. It's pretty pathetic. Her top three favorite things in the world are 1. Squirrels 2. Other dogs 3. Jeff and me!
Describe Abby in 3 words: Smart, Strong, Energetic

Meet Miranda, Charlotte, & Carrie.

I have been terrible at posting lately, and a small reason why is because I have not one, not two, but THREE foster puppies this week! It's a little bit of an experiment, and not something I will likely do very often, but it's been a joy to have these three girls stay with us for a few days. They are a special bunch of puppies - every one of them is very affectionate, playful, and adventurous. It's hard to pick a favorite! I know their small, squatty bodies, soft coats, and kisses will win everyone's hearts over when they are up for adoption tomorrow. They appear to be some kind of Cocker Spaniel/King Charles Spaniel/Retriever/Corgi/other-short-legged-breed type of mix.

Miranda:





Charlotte:





Carrie:





All the girls together:




If I was at a better point in life to add a second dog, I would possibly consider one of these girls. They're some of my favorites that I've had! (And, after having had three all at once, one would probably feel like a piece of cake).

B & G

Just wanted to post this quick picture taken by Abbey Bernhardt of my co-blogger, Becca and her awesome blond Gabe. It's hard to believe I haven't met Gabe yet. I feel like I know him!

One day I will make the trip to CO. Either that or convince Becca to fly Gabe with her to Seattle...and fly home without him.... What?

Meet Ruffles and Totsy

It's a foster week again! After many weeks of being unable to take in foster puppies, I got to pick up two precious little ones this morning. They appear to be some kind of German Shepherd/Collie/Chow mixes, but have reminded people of bears, foxes, groundhogs, and guinea pigs too. Needless to say, they are very unique looking, cute puppies! I have been melted to the core by these guys, wishing they could stay for longer than one night! If anyone would like to adopt one and then conveniently give him/her to me, that would be ok :)

Ruffles:





Totsy:





So cute you could eat them, right? I don't think these two will have any trouble charming the masses tomorrow. As always, hoping that only good and responsible people will be the ones to take them home.

7 Tips For Raising A Puppy

I can't lie, getting a new puppy is one of my favorite things in life. I love everything about it from researching and choosing a breed, to visiting breeders, shopping and training. And with each puppy I raise, I try to correct mistakes I made the previous time. Sometimes reading books and magazines gives you good ideas but very little real life experience. So for this post I thought I would make a list of things that have worked well for me when raising my own dogs.

Puppies are a blank slate, ready to be molded. Some unwanted behaviors are easy to spot from the start; jumping on guests for instance. If you don't want your adult dog doing that, don't ever allow it as a puppy. Pretty self explanatory, right? But other formed behaviors aren't quite as obvious to spot the connection between cause and effect. I want to hopefully help point out some of the not-so-obvious things that make a huge difference in how your puppy turns out, beginning before you even see him or her for the first time.


8 week old Lab mix


1. Develop a vision before you even bring your puppy home

I don't know anyone who buys a puppy hoping it will become a problem dog that they eventually turn over to an animal shelter. Sadly though, that happens far too often and the evidence is in the millions of dogs abandoned at shelters each year, or worse, abused and neglected in someone's backyard. I believe the majority of these cases are the result of not enough planning.

It all starts with choosing the right breed for you and your family. So first, make a list of all the qualities you want in a dog, then find someone who can help you choose a breed that lines up with your expectations. Even if you choose to go the adoption route, having an idea of what breeds suit you will help point you in the right direction at a shelter.

Some tactics I have learned when it comes to finding the right breed:

-Read, read, read. Buy books, read everything you can on the internet about the breeds you are interested in. Something that helped me greatly was finding breed specific message boards online and reading over the conversations amongst the owners of that breed.

-Ask questions. I have found that breed specific message boards and mailing lists are some of the greatest places to get my questions answered.

-Watch videos of the breeds you are interested in on youtube and on AKC.com

-Go to meetup.com, do a search for a breed, find out where the local meetup groups are and visit them. Most of the groups are happy to have visitors even if you don't have a dog of your own. It is one thing to read about a breed and an entirely different thing to see them up close and watch how they interact with each other and with people. I went to a Dachshund meetup group before I got Mud and it was one of the most helpful things I did when narrowing down breeds.

-Go to dog shows! www.akc.org has an "Events" search where you can find upcoming shows in your area.

Getting a puppy is not a race and I promise you that taking your time will be completely worth it. Once you have selected the breed with the traits that line up with your own, you now have the task of developing a more detailed vision.

Before deciding on a dog, something I learned for myself is to go through my daily life imagining that I do have a dog. Imagine your dog there when you go to bed at night, when you wake up, when you get ready for the day, when you go to work, when you come home, when you go out with friends on the weekend, when you run errands etc. What will you do with your dog and how do you expect him to behave throughout your daily routine?

Vision is important when it comes to getting a dog not because you hope to turn your dog into a robot, but because it will be much easier to train and mold your puppy when you know very clearly the goals you are working toward. Choosing the right breed will help you develop goals that are realistic. In other words, you will always need to keep in mind that your dog is a living being with his own likes, dislikes, instincts and personality, and there will need to be room for compromise as well as structure. You will figure out with your own dog that sometimes letting him be who he is can be more freeing than trying to force something that is simply not there.


"Kelly" 8 week old Lab mix


2. Habits and Consistency. Two words to write on your forehead.

Training begins the moment you pick your puppy up from the breeder's. Every new experience is a learning experience for him. Take advantage of this. If you don't want your adult dog on your furniture, don't let your puppy on the furniture either. It is much easier to form behaviors than it is to correct them, so keep that in mind from day one. This also applies heavily to house training. The goal in house training is to get your puppy in the habit of eliminating himself in the right spot. If you take your puppy to the desired location at key times --after eating, sleeping, playing, or as a general rule every 2 hours-- soon enough it will become habit.
I usually teach my puppies how to sit on their first or second day home with me because I want them to grasp the concept of learning as soon as possible. It is rewarding to watch a 7-8 week old puppy's light bulb go on when they realize it's actually beneficial for them to pay attention to your voice. Once your puppy figures out that words actually mean something, and are connected to a reward, he will be on the right track to being attentive to you in the days to come.

When your puppy has learned how to sit on command, you can start having him sit before eating, before going through an open door, when guests arrive etc. If you practice these consistently (meaning every time you feed your puppy, every time you open a door, every time a guest arrives) they will eventually become default behaviors for your puppy and that's how good manners are formed.

Make sure that you are being consistent in ways that make sense to your dog. Chasing your dog in a game and chasing him in an emergency are totally different scenarios to you, but to your dog, they are the same thing. This is why it's a good idea to only play chasing games that reinforce the recall command. For instance, wait until your puppy's attention is diverted from you, then whistle and run backwards in the opposite direction. Reward once your puppy reaches you. This is a chasing game that promotes the right idea. It's also equally important to never, ever punish your puppy for coming to you. If you need your dog to come to you for an unpleasent experience (nail clipping for example), go to him, with some sort reward in hand, and calmly pick him up. Otherwise you will end up with a dog that weighs his options and decides whether or not it's worth it to come when called!



8 week old Golden Retriever/Husky mix


3. Focus on only rewarding calm behavior

If you want to help curb separation anxiety and over excitement when you come home, don't make a big deal out of your coming and going. When you leave the house and put your puppy in his crate, toss a treat in, shut the door calmly and walk away without saying a word. Although tempting to say things like "Bye bye" and "We'll be back soon", remember that dogs don't understand English, they only hear words as cues, and saying these things consistently will only become cues for your dog to become anxious or nervous that you are about to leave. The same rule applies when you return home to your puppy. Running to his crate first thing and speaking to him in a high pitched voice will only intensify his already natural instinct to be excited about your return and will contribute to anxiety of all sorts. Overly excitable or submissive puppies have a tendency to urinate when greeting a visitor or when their owners return home. Almost always, the cure is to simply ignore your puppy (or have your guests ignore your puppy) when you come home. Give him time to settle down on his own before you pet him, give him eye contact or talk to him. (As Cesar Millan calls it; no touch, no talk, no eye contact). Once your puppy has calmed down, ask him to sit and then calmly pet and talk to him all you want. By doing this, you are rewarding calm behavior rather than anxious behavior.


"Bentley" 8 week old Pug


4. Socialize, socialize, socialize

Socialization is one of the most important aspects of raising a puppy. And it's equally important to do it right. A good majority of behavior problems arise from lack of socialization at an early age.
Get your puppy accustomed to as many people, situations, and experiences as possible, particularly before the age of 16 weeks. But take care not to overwhlem your puppy. Puppies should be around a lot of kids for instance, but it is incredibly important that you supervise every child/puppy interaction to make sure the child never does anything unfair to the puppy. Kids are unpredictable in their movements and their moods and can easily hurt a puppy without realizing what they are doing. One traumatizing experience with a kid can make a dog forever uneasy around them, especially the smaller breeds. That being said, make an effort to get your puppy out in the world. Take him to outdoor malls, pet stores, puppy play groups, on walks, to friend's houses etc. Really anywhere that will allow your dog and is safe; go! Bring treats with you everywhere you go and hand them to strangers. I have done this with my puppies and most people are more than willing to give a treat to a cute puppy! If you see a kid or dog that looks too rambunctious for your puppy, steer clear until you are sure your dog is mature enough to handle it. You are the leader, but you are also your puppy's protector and it's detrimental that your puppy learns he can trust you to keep him safe.

Use common sense. There are times when your puppy will be frightened of things that are not dangerous. Even though our natural human reaction is to pick up and cuddle a scared puppy, what that does is actually affirm to your puppy that there is something to be afraid of. This is why it's best to respond with patience and not force your puppy into doing something he is truly afraid of. But at the same time, encourage him to get over his fears. Never sound frustrated, rushed, or sorry for your puppy when he responds to something in fear. Let your body language and tone of voice be matter of fact. If you find yourself in a situation where your puppy is in real danger, do your best to rescue him from it without panicking.

I also highly recommend enrolling your puppy in puppy kindergarten. Not only will it be a great place to socialize your puppy on a consistent basis, but it will also be a great place to learn and get your questions answered on training and behavior. Most puppy classes work on obedience basics such as sit, down, stay, come etc. and practicing these things in a class setting is excellent experience for your puppy. Plus, you might find that you love working with your puppy so much that you would like to pursue competitive events and puppy classes are the perfect place to get connected.

Socialization is one of the most fun parts of owning a puppy! So don't forget to have fun!


8 week old Golden Retriever/Husky mix

5. Crate train

Crate training, if done right, is going to be one of the best things you do for yourself and your new dog. I say this because I have lived with dogs that are intolerant of crates and it's much easier living with a crate trained dog.

The most effective way to crate train is through a combination of freedom and assertiveness. What I mean by this is, it's good to start out slow. Throw a toy or a treat in your puppy's crate several times a day without closing the door behind him. Let him go in and out of his crate on his own. Another good way to speed up the process is to feed your puppy in his crate for the first several months of his life. When you feed, close the door and gradually increase the time you leave it closed after he has finished his meal. At first you may want to let him out right after he's done, and the next time, try keeping it closed for a few extra minutes.

On the contrary, you also need to be a little head strong when it comes to crate training. When it's time to put your puppy to bed for the night, don't give into his whining, even if it turns to screaming! Make sure your puppy has eliminated himself directly before bed. The goal is to teach your puppy that crying does not get him out of his crate. Which leads to the next crate training tip; only let your puppy out when he's being calm and quiet. Do your best to never reward anxious behavior. Very young puppies may need to be let out once or twice during the night, so if your puppy is still whining 4 hours after you put him to bed or wakes up and whines, let him out again and put him back in his crate once he has gone potty. This way, you will at least know that his whining is not because he is trying to tell you something.

Crate training is also an invaluable housetraining tool. This is because puppies naturally do not want to soil their bedding, so you can use that to your advantage, but be careful not to abuse it either. Puppies can only hold it for so long, generally 4 hours at most for 8 week - 6 month old puppies and 2 hours for puppies younger than that. Put your puppy in his crate when you can't supervise him and when you fetch him out of his crate, take him to his potty area first thing. This will speed up the house training process immensely.

Never, ever, use your puppy's crate as punishment. You always want your puppy to associate his crate with good things. Also, dogs don't respond to "time outs" because they live in the moment. Your timing has to be perfect in order to correct a behavior, otherwise your dog will simply not connect cause and effect. Yes, your dog will learn to perceive when you are angry with him and will react accordingly, but that does not mean he understands WHY you are mad.

Make sure you get a crate of the proper size. A crate that's too large may cause your puppy to use one side as a toilet area and one as a bed. But you also want it to be big enough for your dog to be comfortable in when you leave him for long periods of time.


"Mud" 7 week old Miniature Dachshund

6. Don't give up

Too many people give up when it gets hard. Dogs are most commonly relinquished to shelters between the ages of 1 and 3. This is the adolescent stage when dogs are no longer irresistible puppies, and their owners either lose interest or don't want to put the extra work into dealing with a teenager. But take it from me, it will get easier.

Whatever it is that you have decided you want your dog to learn, don't give up and don't give in. Certain behaviors will take longer to become habits for your dog and will require more patience from you, but hold on.

As an example, my Dachshund, Mud, despised being confined to any sort of crate or play pen from 7 weeks through about 6 months of age. He would scream at the top of his lungs to the point where I would actually think something was physically wrong with him. I almost gave up hope, thinking he was just going to be one of those dogs that can never be crated, but knowledgeable dog friends of mine encouraged me not to give up and I am so glad I took their advice! Today Mud has 2 crates; one he sleeps in and one in the car and he happily goes into both on his own and will stay there with no problem even with the door closed. It definitely comes in handy when we take him to friend's houses and when we have to leave him home alone!

Some things may take more time than others depending on your individual dog and your previous training experience. But that's not a reason to quit prematurely!



8 week old Lab mix


7. Accidents will happen

...and when they do, don't be too hard on yourself. If your puppy makes a mistake on the carpet, learn from it, clean it up, and move on!


"Ruby" 10 week old Yorkie




Lastly, here are a few book and magazine recommendations! All of these have helped me in one way or another!

How to Raise the Perfect Dog by Cesar Millan


Cesar's Way by Cesar Millan


Popular Dog Series Magazines


Family Dog by Richard A. Wolters




(All photos taken by Tory Cobrea)